Cree Lumia 5.2 LED Aquarium Light Build (8 Chips)
Posted by DCM
Okay, it’s time to replace the old metal halide lights with a set of LEDs. After seeing a lot of fellow reefers switching to LED fixtures I can’t believe how great their tanks look! The ability to finely tune each light channel really allows for complete customization. Most people’s preferences differ quite a bit on how much blue, or actinic, light is used in their aquarium. Being able to change each channel based on what looks good to you and your corals makes it all worth it to me. I love it when the corals glow in the tank. 🙂
After a bit of research I’ve decided that I want to build my own light fixture using components from LED Group Buy. I’m pretty sure I can build a LED fixture that will save on electricity and give my corals and clams better light. It looks like the Cree Lumia 5.2 LED chip is a great full spectrum reef tank option. 5 Lumia 5.2’s spaced on a 6 foot MakersLED heatsink should make for a great setup on my 90 inch tank. Tentatively I plan on using the 5 chip setup as it puts at least one chip directly above each one of my tank’s opening. It’s recommended that you use one chip every 24 inches so there aren’t any dark spots between lights. Using 5 LED chips on the 6 foot heatsink would put the LED chips about 16-17 inches apart. Here is my proposed diagram matched up with my tank:
I’m working with the staff at LED Group Buy to finely tune the design but I think the 5 chip design should work well.
After chatting with the team at LED Group Buy it looks like 8 lumia 5.2 chips is more appropriate for my tank. 8 chips should ensure I won’t have any spots lacking coverage. Here is a rough mock up of where 8 chips would sit on a 72″ heatsink over the tank, each line representing a Lumia:
Most important to me, I want to make sure there is a Lumia chip right above the clams on the right side of the tank. Currently one of the halides is close but not really closed enough:
The order has been placed! 🙂
|180w 48v 3.75A DC Power Supply (1 per 2 lights w/ 1 extra)||S-180-48||5|
|Arctic Silver Céramique 2 – 25g||CMQ2-25G||1|
|CREE Lumia 5.2 – 70w Full Spectrum 5 Channel CREE LED
(Connectors: Dual Molex connectors for CREE Lumia 5.2 – Flying leads)
|CREE Lumia 5.2 – 70w Full Spectrum 5 Channel CREE LED
(Connectors: Molex connector for CREE Lumia 5.2 – Interconnect)
|Hanging Kit for MakersLED Heatsink||MakersHK||1|
|Makers CONTROLLER – Sunrise / Sunset controller for MakersDRIVER||MakersCTRL1||1|
|MakersDRIVER 5UP Pro – Drive up to 70 LEDs! (1 per 2 lights)||MakersDRV5||4|
|MakersLED Designer Heatsink Kit – Professional Grade – Anodized
|Meanwell LDD-700HLED Driver (5 per MakerDRIVER 5UP Pro w/ 2 extra)||LDD-700H||22|
All of my back ordered parts have now arrived! I just need to make a little time to put everything together. Looking over my parts it looks like I need to pick up 3 – 3′ straight-ended 3.5mm audio cables (the 18″ 90 degree cables weren’t long enough to connect each MakersDRIVER), some 14 gauge power wire (16 gauge would have worked too), a few rubber grommets (< .5″ diameter and ~.25″ groove), a step drill bit, 4 computer power cords to run each power supply and 4 quick disconnects to run between the power supplies and heatsink. The plan is to basically build 4 separate sets of lights and place them on one heatsink. Each 180 watt power supply will power up a MakersDRIVER 5UP Pro. The MakersDRIVER 5UP Pro runs two Lumina 5.2s and a fan. First step is to lay everything out and figure out where the power and fan wires need to go through the heatsink.
The outer Lumia’s are placed 3 inches in on the heatsink then the rest are spaced out 9 7/16″.
A big thanks to my friend, and fellow Reefer, Kelan for helping me with the build. It’s always nice to have help with these projects as two heads are better than one.
Here we go! Using the step drill bit I started out by drilling holes for the rubber grommets (protection for each power line, fan wire and 3.5 mm audio cable). We made sure to get grommets big enough to fit the 2 – 14 gauge power wires and the small fan wire.
As we began to slide the screws, nylon washers and nuts down the heat sink it became clear that everything needed to be put on the heatsink in a very precise order as it’s a very compact fit. The MakersDRIVER 5UP Pro with Meanwell LED drivers does not slide over the screws. The interconnect Molex connectors will not slide under the MakersDRIVER 5UP Pro when mounted to the heatsink so be sure to put the Molex connector under the 5UP Pro before sliding it into the heatsink.
Also be sure to leave room for the acrylic splash guard to fit in the groove above the 5UP. There’s no room for error so make sure the guard fits and that you have the correct amount of screws between each unit so you don’t have to take everything off!
A dab of Arctic Silver goes a long way.
The Lumia’s are placed on the heatsink and gently worked down to remove any imperfections for heat transfer then screwed down firmly.
A nice “S” shape takes up the extra wire length of the interconnecting Molex connectors.
Flip over heatsink and attach fans and run power wires through rubber grommets. Also run 5UP connection 3.5 mm audio cables through holes and add rubber grommets. Note: Because of the size of the audio cable ends and the diameter of the grommets we had to cut a slit into one side of the grommet, slide the audio cable through, then insert the audio cable end and then grommet into the hole. You can see the cut in the audio cable grommet two pictures down.
Make sure to have your small screwdriver set handy to tighten the screws on the 5UP board.
Time for some bench testing with the extra power supply I purchased. Note: be sure to only have the Makers Controller plugged into the MakersDRIVER 5UP Pro and Lumia’s you plan on testing. If you want to test the whole unit make sure you have power running to each 5UP Pro. We initially had all of the 5UP Pro’s connected together with the audio cables and the result was the single Lumia we were testing didn’t turn on. After unplugging the audio cable connector all worked as expected. Also keep in mind, it takes a few seconds for the Lumia’s to come on and the controller is set at 50% intensity by default which makes for a very bright light. So, be careful when you turn it on so you don’t blind yourself! We turned all channels down to 35% and it was still very bright.
Time to get the power supplies mounted.
A quick trip to Lowes produced a white laminated shelving board that we screwed to the wall and then the power supplies to.
Then we took out the old lights and easily hung the new unit up using the MakersLED hanging kit and strung the power wires over to the power supplies. Make sure you screw the hanging unit into studs!
Old Current metal halide unit and T5s:
New shiny LED unit:
Power up the 180 watt power supplies with the old recycled computer power cords.
Turns out I had two different power cords consisting of differently colored wires. The first had black (load), white (neutral) and green (ground) wires while the other had brown (load), blue (neutral) and green (ground) wires.
Plug each power supply into my Apex controller and flip the switch!
UPDATE – 1 Week:
UPDATE – 4 Weeks:
UPDATE – 7 Weeks:
UPDATE – 1 Year: Cree Lumia 5.2 Build – 1 Year Update
Posted on December 14, 2014, in Clams, Coral, Cree Lumia 5.2 LED, Reef Maintenance, Saltwater Aquarium Reef Tank and tagged Aquarium, Aquarium Light Fixture, Aquarium Light Upgrade, Aquarium Lighting, Clam Lighting, CREE, Cree LED, Cree Lumia 5.2, DIY, LED, LED Build, LED Group Buy, LED heatsink, LEDgroupbuy, LEDs, Lumia, Lumia 5.2, MakersLED, Metal Halide, saltwater tank. Bookmark the permalink. Comments Off on Cree Lumia 5.2 LED Aquarium Light Build (8 Chips).
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